Let’s Go to Dublin

I have never visited Ireland. But I know a number of people who have and every single one says, “We had a marvelous time.” One said, “I even saw the thatched roof cottage where my grandmother lived.”

A street scene in Dublin – photo: courtesy of National Geographic Traveler

My interest in Ireland was peaked even more when I came across a fascinating article in the National Geographic Traveler for January 2018 written by Pól ó Conghaile (that’s some name!). He really knows Dublin or, as he says, “I was born in Dublin. I work here. I’ve lived here.”

That sounded like an excellent start to me, so I proceeded to read the entire article. In this day of Twitter and 140 characters (now 280) it’s very satisfying to read a beautifully written piece by an author who knows his subject and can write with great flair and style.

He goes on to say, “I regularly curse its winter grayness and lopsided development, its choking traffic and soaring rents.” This sounds like New York! Have you taken a crosstown bus lately? A crippled tortoise goes faster. I won’t even touch the rent situation.

IS IT REALLY THE FRIENDLIEST CITY IN THE WORLD? Absolutely!

The author writes, “I wanted to find out if Dublin is really the friendliest city in the world, as so many tourists say it is. And if so, what strange chemistry makes it that way?”

He begins by describing Dublin (Ireland’s capital) as an intimate and wonderful puzzle. Then segues into a discussion about Irish food with “when I was growing up, Irish cuisine didn’t exist beyond dishes like bacon and cabbage. “

“Now, we’ve realized the quality of Irish ingredients, from delicious cheeses to smoked fish and mountain lamb, and we’re not afraid to have fun with them. We’re also finally embracing our seafood.”

THEY REALLY HAVE A LOVE AFFAIR WITH WORDS? True and true!

The standard Dublin greeting is “What’s the story?” One does not have to answer. Just toss back, “Not much. Story with you?” Or, “wait till I tell ya…” As the author says, “We don’t do direct here. Or literal. We talk around topics, not through them.”

The word “story” both evokes the city’s literary chops and brings on off-the-cuff creativity that lifts a good conversation. Dublin is a place where everyone is said to have a novel in them. If only they’d go home and write it.

IS IT ALL CULTURAL CLICHES OR IS IT MOVING ON? Racing on!

Ireland has just voted to legalize same sex marriage. Of course, you’ll still run into a leprechaun. “But,” says the author. “Dublin is now savvy enough to honor these historical features while also celebrating a modern Ireland.” With 33% of the country under the age of 25, youthful energy fires up Dublin’s shopping, dining and entertainment scenes.

Stopping for a quick sip – photo: courtesy of National Geographic Traveler

WHAT’S THE FINAL WORD ON THE FRIENDLINESS? The people!

Visitors just can’t believe Dublin’s friendly atmosphere. Its chemistry with visitors is a mix of Celtic charm and Mediterranean warmth – it can turn even the hardest hearts to putty.

DO YOU GO TO RESTAURANTS? Of course you do!

That’s why I’m suggesting a book titled, Heat(Open Link in new window), by Bill Buford that I just finished reading. Buford left his job at The New Yorker (he was a staff writer and the fiction editor for eight years) to embark on an unlikely destination: the kitchen at Babbo, the revolutionary Italian restaurant created by superstar chef Mario Batali.

Bill Buford gave up his day job for pots and pans

Determined to learn the tricks of the trade, Buford soon found himself drowning in carrots. Note: I have made beef stew many, many times. It requires tossing in cubes of potatoes and carrots. Well, after reading how Buford learned how to cut carrots in a restaurant, mine would have received a F-minus.

He offers this hilarious, play-by-play description: “A carrot is not shaped like a cube. You have to trim it into a long rectangle, then cut it into thin planks and cut them into slivers. And then chop, chop, chop into one-millimeter cubes.”

He had to cube 36 carrots. When inspected, his boss shouted, “This is not a fine dice!” After two hours of work all his carrots were tossed. “I wanted to weep,” he says. “It took me three days before I could tell anyone about the experience. She threw away my carrots – all of them!”

I was laughing so hard I could barely see the page when I read this. Believe me when I say: this book is a great read.   

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